Elated, sad and hopeful--these were the top three feelings I had after two days in El Salvador. Elated to be one of 21 human rights delegates including Fr Roy Bourgeois and Ann Wright on a trip sponsored by School Of the Americas Watch (see www.soaw.org) on the 35th Memorial of Archbishop Oscar Romero's assassination by a graduate of SOA/WHINSEC. Sad to see the poverty and the affects of the 1980-92 civil war and US imperialism. And hopeful because the people of El Salvador elected a leftist president and because of the international solidarity movement helping the people to improve their lives. We were there 20-29 March.
An Economics Professor from the National University in San Salvador talked to us about the strategies of US neo-colonialism in El Salvador and Central America. A priest told how refugees fled the war to Los Angeles, learned gang culture and brought back gang violence when they returned. On Saturday we walked in a parade of thousands on the 35th anniversary of the death of Oscar Romero, shot while giving a sermon. Pope Frances declared him a martyr. Along the parade route we saw a man going through Burger King trash bags on the sidewalk and eating discards on the spot. On Sunday we listened to a survivor of the 1980-1992 war tell how his village was bombed by the US Navy and what was left burned by El Salvadoran Army. Only the church was spared. We hiked the hills nearby where the guerrillas lived while fighting US financed government forces.
On Monday, after visiting Romero's home we drove into the country to a village of war refugees. They are on unused government property living in hand made shacks while they try to get title to the land and build permanent houses with utilities. Tuesday, when five of our delegates met for 1 1/2 hours with President Ceren he took notes and committed to make a "call" to expedite the title transfer. That afternoon we went to a forum at Jesuit University attended by students and international solidarity groups. A priest explained the motive for the massacre of the Jesuit priests in 1983. Ann Wright and Roy Bourgeois talked about their experience trying to close SOA/WHINSEC. That evening a former (E.S.) Supreme Court Judge told her story of surviving a massacre of University students when she was in law school. She is the only witness willing to testify in the trial of the accused. Her husband, also an activist, was shot and killed in his driveway.
If we hadn't been hearing about enough death and destruction, Wednesday we went to a memorial wall (reminiscent of our Vietnam Memorial) with the names of thousands of civilians murdered and disappeared between 1980 and 1992, and held a press conference encouraging the people of E.S. to support Human Rights. A Bishop from Mexico gave a stirring tribute to Roy. That afternoon we traveled to Ciudad Mujer where poor women get medical, mental, economic, legal and job skills assistance--quite a nice, clean, new, government operation. Domestic violence seems to be common. On a walking tour of the National University of San Salvador, we met a couple of artists who have painted several murals around the campus promoting culture and peace. Later, two attorneys (women) met with us over dinner to talk about "Las 17", an organization working for the pardon of 15 (2 already released) women still in prison for 30-40 years because they had a MISCARRIAGE! Thursday we went to San Isidro, a town of 11,000 where some activists are trying to prevent the expansion of a mine owned by Oceana Gold. The E.S. government has a moratorium on new mine permits, but Oceana is suing for loss of future profit. In the small village of Victoria we met with a broadcaster from the community radio station where many of the employees and volunteers have been subjected to threats by conservatives for exposing corruption.
Two legislators met with us. They told us of last minute voting procedure changes and why it is taking months to figure out who won the recent elections. We pointed out that the US economic and military aid comes with strings attached and recommended they send no more students to WHINSEC. We have 80 bases in Latin America. Passports are not required of military or business executives. Five of our delegation visited some the 15 women in prison for miscarriages. While jailed, they are taught how to read and write, crochet, embroider, and they have each other to share their stories. Most have children at home who are now without their mother. Still more sadness: we traveled to the site where four U.S. nuns were killed and left by the road in 1989. There a monument and chapel were built. We listened to a priest, John Spain, tell what he knew about their life and death.
The current President Ceren was a teacher and a leader of the FMLN rebels during the war. When he won election, the incumbent called for a coup, but the army refused. He seems compliant with the US, for the most part. There are thousands of El Salvadorans in the US sending money home. They don't want to jeopardize that. He is, however, gradually reducing the number of students going to WHINSEC.
While waiting for our bus outside the cathedral I had a long conversation with a friendly, young policeman. He was very appreciative of our effort to bring peace to his country. It seems that high quality murals were as numerous as graffiti. The struggle goes on.
Carroll Nast
Chapter 122